From Chestnuts to Castles: Northern Jordan’s Winter

Winter in northern Jordan is a season that goes beyond just chilly weather; it’s a time of connection, tradition, and rich cultural experiences. The region transforms into a picturesque blend of misty mountains, olive groves glistening with dew, and homes radiating the warmth of family gatherings. Whether you’re exploring the rolling hills of Ajloun, the historic streets of Irbid, or the charming villages tucked away in the countryside, northern Jordan offers a unique glimpse into how Jordanians embrace the magic of winter.

Olive Harvesting and Fresh Pressed Oil

Winter marks the tail end of the olive harvest season, a cornerstone of life in northern Jordan. Families come together to gather the last of the season’s olives, often by hand, with laughter and storytelling echoing through the groves. The freshly pressed olive oil, known locally as “liquid gold,” becomes a centerpiece of winter meals. A drizzle on warm taboon bread, paired with za’atar and labneh, is a simple yet unforgettable culinary experience.

The Art of Keeping Warm

In the north, staying warm is as much about tradition as it is about practicality. Homes are heated with wood-burning stoves, where a kettle of tea is always on standby. The stove isn’t just a source of heat; it’s a gathering spot. Families sit around it, sipping sweetened tea infused with sage and swapping stories late into the night. For many, it’s a time to slow down, enjoy the company of loved ones, and appreciate the small joys of winter.

Ajloun’s Famous Chestnuts

Ajloun, with its dense oak and pine forests, is famous for its winter chestnuts. During the season, street vendors roast chestnuts over open flames, filling the air with their smoky aroma. A bag of warm chestnuts is more than a snack; it’s a winter ritual. Whether enjoyed during a hike in Ajloun Forest Reserve or while strolling through the village streets, chestnuts are a staple of winter in the north.

Winter Cuisine: A Bowl of Comfort

Food plays a central role in northern Jordanian winters, and the dishes are designed to warm you from the inside out. Lentil soup, or “shorbat adas,” is a household favorite, often served with lemon wedges and a side of pickles. Another winter specialty is “freekeh,” a smoked green wheat dish cooked with chicken or lamb. These meals are hearty, flavorful, and always accompanied by freshly baked bread and a side of community spirit.

Rainy Day Adventures

Winter rains in northern Jordan bring a sense of renewal to the land, turning the hills a vibrant green. While some may prefer to stay indoors during the rain, the locals embrace it. It’s common to see families heading out for “msarrah,” short road trips to enjoy the countryside after the rain stops. The smell of wet earth, known as “atreya,” is cherished and often described as one of winter’s hidden joys.

Hammam and Wellness Traditions

The tradition of the hammam, or communal bathhouse, remains alive in some parts of northern Jordan. A winter visit to a hammam is both a cultural and therapeutic experience, combining steam baths with traditional massages. It’s a way to relax, rejuvenate, and escape the cold while connecting with the local way of life.

Ajloun Castle in Winter

One of the most iconic experiences in the north during winter is a visit to Ajloun Castle. Perched atop a hill, the castle offers panoramic views of the surrounding forests and villages. In winter, the mist often envelops the castle, creating a mystical atmosphere that feels straight out of a storybook.

A Season of Generosity

Winter in northern Jordan is also a time of giving. Families prepare “makdous,” stuffed pickled eggplants, and other preserves not only for their own consumption but also to share with neighbors and relatives. This season of generosity strengthens community bonds and reflects the deep-rooted traditions of hospitality and sharing that Jordanians are known for.

A Warm Invitation

Winter in the north of Jordan is more than a season; it’s an experience filled with warmth, flavor, and tradition. From the crackling fires and comforting meals to the breathtaking landscapes and cultural rituals, the region invites you to slow down and savor the beauty of this special time of year.

Whether you’re a local rediscovering your roots or a traveler exploring Jordan for the first time, the traditions of the north offer a window into the soul of a people who know how to make even the coldest days feel warm. So, wrap up, head north, and let the charm of Jordanian winter traditions unfold.